For a rather long time, I’ve wanted to visit by all means such South Asian countries as India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, etc. I’ve never imagined, however, that my first visit to India and Bangladesh would be the tours to see around the buildings designed by Kahn and Corbusier.
It was on the 26th February that the members of the tour of Indian architecture left Narita for an old city, Ahmadabad in West India via Delhi. Ahmadabad is a city strongly influenced by the ‘Spirit of Non-violence’ of Jainism where Mahatma Gandhi placed the base of his movement for the independence of India from Britain. It was also a thriving city as a chief production area of cotton. In 1950s, with its financial power, such well known architects as Le Corbusier and Louis Kahn were invited to design various public buildings and mansions for the rich. The purpose of our tour was to see these Indian modern architectures.
The flight was smooth up until we reached Delhi but the connecting flight to Ahmadabad was delayed for 90 minutes, that made us have to kill time of almost 5 hours in the airport even if the flight there takes just an hour. It is a common practice in India to take at least 3 hours for changing planes. It was at midnight that we finally got Ahmadabad.
The next morning of 27th, the tough members of the tour ate thick and heavy curry and left for ‘Villa Sarabhai’ designed by Corbusier. The Sarabhais is one of the noblest families in Ahmadabad. The mansion Corbusier drew up its design is located in the vast premises The Sarabhais owns. Leaving the detailed analyses of its architectural specialties to books on architecture, I was moved by its presence in harmony with the harsh natural environment of India, which gave me such an impression that life-style of 1950’s India was confined and sealed in its space. The fact that they still live in the villa gave me a kind of touching sensation.
Next, we visited ‘Textile Industry Hall’ on the river side of the Sabarmati also designed by Corbusier. This architecture is of trilaminar structure with the use of domino system. Its breeze soleil that protects people from the strong sun shine of South India was particularly impressive. The cool wind from the river that breezes through the space full of liberating impression, where outside and inside harmoniously coexist, was refreshing.
After having lunch at around 3pm, which is supposed to be the hottest time there, we headed for ‘The University of Business Management of India’ designed by Kahn. Buildings with geometrical forms are arranged in consecutive manner in its vast premises. The overwhelming impression created by the sizes of buildings, the heat that practically makes us see mirage, the non-presence of people ( It’s dangerous to stay outside in the heat there.) combined had us feel like seeing metaphysical paintings of Giorgio de Chirico.
We also visited The Museum of The Cultural Center of Ahmadabad, one of the three museums built based upon Corbusier’s concept plan of ‘Museums that grow up in the form of spiral’ in Ahmadabad, Chandigarh and Ueno(Tokyo), ‘Sangus’, the atelier of an Indian architect Doshi, who supported the Indian Project by Corbusier and Kahn, ‘ Gandhi Labor Institute’, ‘H・D・Gufa Museum’ and Shodan House by Corbusier, though we only saw it from outside. In the short time of just two days, we visited 8 modern buildings and two water wells in total. This tour seemed to be a pilgrimage dedicated to architectures. Don't you think?